Thursday, October 31, 2013

The Hunt For Good Leave-in And Moisturizer Ingredients

Now that I have figured out what works for me in a protein conditioner and I have a staple protein conditioner, I wanted to work on figuring out what to look for in a leave-in and cream moisturizer.  Like my protein analysis process, I put the ingredients for 6 leave-ins and moisturizers and 2 twisting butters that I know work for me into a chart, and ranked them.  I also included 3 products that I know do not work for me and 1 iffy product.  I paid particular attention to the first 5 ingredients of each product, but I listed out all of the ingredients to see if there were commonalities.  Here is what I learned:

  • Three of the twelve products I examined had water as the first ingredient.  One of the exceptions was my twisting butter, which had almond milk as the first ingredient and water as the second ingredient.  The second is my bottom ranked like, and has aloe vera gel as the second ingredient and allantoin as the fourth.  The third is a dislike that works for my hair if I cut it with an equal amount of water (thanks to someone on LHCF for suggesting this!).

  • Eight of the twelve products had BTMS (Behentrimonium Methosulfate and Cetearyl Alcohol) within the first five ingredients.  My top leave-in has it as the second ingredient, right behind water.  My top moisturizer has it as the third ingredient.  I'll do another post on BTMS after I have more info.

  • Oils were the other common ingredient in my likes, though no product had the exact same combination of oils.  Jojoba and Avocado oil showed up the most (3 likes each), and the following showed up in two likes each- castor, olive, coconut, and wheat germ.  The higher ranked likes had the oils listed further down on the list, usually after the top 5.

  • Shea butter was a top five ingredient in two of my three dislikes (the third dislike is the one I have to cut with water), and in my iffy product.  It was only in one of my likes and it was the bottom ranked like.

  • Cupuacu butter was in my iffy product and my second lowest ranked moisturizer.

Based on these observations, I am going to do some more research into the ingredients in my products to see if I can figure out other similarities.  However, in the meantime, I will look for products with water as the #1 ingredient, and with BTMS somewhere in the first five ingredients.  I will also look for jojoba or avocado oil after the first 5 ingredients.  I will likely limit my use of shea or cupuacu butter.  I would limit my use of all butters, but murumuru butter is the second ingredient in my favorite moisturizer, so butters are not automatically bad.

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